The second day was back to normal with sun and clear skies for most of the day, and a surprisingly warm 18ºC, until the end at Luz where it was cooler, but not so much as to drive us inside.
Another regular feature of the RTC, along with the photo on the Quinta steps and the one sitting on the wall at Fort de Almadena, has been our habit of being selected by various dogs as suitable company for a walk! Last year we had one dog which attached itself to us around Burgau, and having arrived at Sagres, located us on the next morning and walked to Carrapateira.
This year we had a new dog on each day - one joined us before the descent to Praia de Barriga, which Myriam named 'Panda' (on the left) and 'Dusty' (right, having a well-earned rest.)
Moving Time: 6 hrs 16 min. 6 hrs 38 min
Total Time: 7 hrs 45 min. 7 hrs 54 min
Moving Avg.: 4.6 km/hr. 4.3 km/hr
Overall Avg.: 3.8 km/hr. 3.6 km/hr
Total Ascent: 718 m. 621 m.
Max Elevation: 163 m. 160 m.
The GPS was fired up, cameras cocked, and the photographic formalities were completed on a surprisingly mild morning, most wearing only light fleeces, except for Frank who was sporting serious Fell Walking gear.
Going over the top…..
The early start at 0740 brought up the prospect of the tide not being far enough out to get round the next headland. With impeccable timing we were able to skip past in between waves although the ‘Seventh’ wave nearly caught the tail-enders.
This saddle at the top of the narrow climbing path has always been a traditional spot to reassemble the group (and gather one’s breath) and pose for a photo.
The wild west coast cliffs – a totally different aspect from previous sunny walks with calmer seas. Photo by John H.
The photo does not do justice to this narrow goat path with a steep drop away to the sea.
Myriam captured this shot of the group against a steel gray sky. Evidently I am not as cold as some of the others after that climb!
Spectacular pillar on another steep ridge climb
As we were descending the ‘easy’ route down towards the start of the long beach walk to Castelejo, the weather forecast came true and we had an emergency stop to don raingear. Rod tries to look nonchalant with his double-ribbed parasol, but it proved less than effective when the winds started to swirl.
At last the long flat bit with a coffee at the end! This gave our photographers a chance to exercise their art with some wonderfully atmospheric shots, quite unlike the clear shadow-filled shots of last year. This by John H.
Still raining
Well-waterproofed
Aaah caffeine!
Though Chris had considered this to be an optional drop out point, he was going so well that even contemplating the last climb to the Coastguard House, he decided to stay the course.
The last climb of the day!
The rain has (temporarily) stopped and we gained height rapidly.
Moody view of Castelejo Beach and the north
Lunch in the lee of the Coastguard House.
The Torre de Aspe was in low cloud and swirling drizzle
One and a half hours later we were back in summer for the stroll in to Sagres
Now that wasn’t so bad!
Taking the medicine.
The first day’s walk ended well, in sunshine, and warm enough to sit outside Pastelaria Baia, unlike last year when it had been sunny all day, but cooler. We had made a very good overall time – perhaps thanks to the early part of the walk when the drizzly conditions kept us moving. Everyone appeared to be in good condition and ready for the evening’s festivities.
Evening Day 1- The Dinner at Vila Velha
In a departure from previous years, the pre-dinner drinks were held in Vila Velha, where the atmosphere was warmer, and there was no need to move too far to the tables. Monday was normally Lia’s night off, but she had opened especially for us, and we had a good attendance of the 14 walkers and another 11 supporters. These were Jyll, Mike, Antje, Hazel, Vitor, Dinah, Diane, Phil, Susan, Uli, and Hilary.
Frank and Jyll Rod and Antje
A selection of 'bon viveurs'
Myriam appeared to have exhausted her camera battery, and I was already fearful of the amount of editing and selection I would have to do for this Blog, so John H. was virtually the sole photographer and nearly all of the foregoing are from his camera.
Rod, as usual put the whole occasion in perspective with a short and witty speech, and for once we were permitted to sit in our original seats all night, as Ian S. was not there to attempt to rearrange the seating positions!
I can't recall what time we eased off towards the Hotel after thanking Lia and her staff for their magnificent repast, but it didn't seem long before the alarm went off next to my ear, heralding the start of Day 2.
Still dark as we blearily made our way from The Navigator to Pastelaria Baia for our pre-ordered breakfasts. The Baggage Teams had been up earlier and the cars were open for loading. As I approached the Café with Rod, I saw a couple of walkers standing outside (you know who you were!) and I thought the worst - Sr. Emanuel and Maria José had failed to set their alarm clock and were not yet open - but I needn't have worried - the half asleep early arrivals had not been sufficiently awake to turn the door handle fully!
John H soon arrived with his 'Big One' and the record could start again!
Somehow we managed to climb over 200 m. LESS than last year on this leg. Partially made up for the 97 m. more we did on Day 1! Not sure how, but it couldn’t possibly be faulty technology, or the fact that we went in the opposite direction! Any suggestions please!
When John got the above photo back from the chemists, we noted a spooky phenomenon. Behind the group, apparently inside the bar, a strange face loomed between Yves and Terry! Could this have been a ghost of RTC Past? Does anyone recognise a lost friend or a relative who is spiritually disturbed and unable to accept his fate peacefully?
The sun was rising with scattered clouds,at 0740 as we set off, but it was reasonably warm already and good prospects for the walk ahead. After 8 RTC walks, the majority conclude that the leg from Sagres to Luz is the toughest, despite being a couple of Km shorter, and to do this as the second day makes it tougher still.
However there is a school of thought that if you walk from Sagres to Carrapateira on the second day, then all the tough climbs come right at the end of the day when you are least motivated to bound up and down those longer hills.
If there is an RTC 2010, then we will put it to a democratic vote – or how about from each end towards the middle?
The ‘ovens’ can be seen at the far side of the beach under the ridge which we are destined to climb.
This miradouro has a tiled floor, wonderful views and apparently was built for wining and dining al fresco, by some acquaintances of Rod who own the land, but cannot build there!
Starting the climb out of Fornos requires a bit of scrambling and a head for heights, but the final views back to the beach are wonderful……….
….and the reward when right up the top is the sight of ‘The Disney House’, which seems to have augmented it’s wind turbine since last year!
Apparently John told Hazel that the second day was easier, so that is why she chose to walk to Luz. This demonstrates the validity of seeking a second opinion!
Yellow sandstone (as opposed to grey sandstone and red sandstone!) We are getting spread out here!
The rearguard cautiously negotiate the ‘Wall of Death’ coming in to Salema. The vanguard are probably sitting down to coffee about now! Discipline must be enforced!
Salema, which the last of us reached just before 1 pm., is always a good spot for lunch where we can sit comfortably and gorge on our sandwiches with real coffee with the proprietor’s blessing. We were met by Phil and Susan, Vitor and John. Dina had been struggling with a rubbing boot, and changed to trainers here. Rod made some terse remarks about those in front being unsympathetic to the slower walkers behind.
The next highlight was ‘The Ascent of Gordon’s Gully’. Phil had already been Up the Gully with Susan, to achieve a FTF (First to Find’) of my new cache hidden there on Sunday. I had reccied the Official Route through the gully some two weeks earlier and was delighted to note that the sea had helpfully pushed a vast quantity of sand up the beach to cover the slippery seaweed-strewn rocks which were exposed on that occasion
Showing superb navigational skills, John then leapt in his car, and reached the Fort de Almadena before most of the walkers. Here he took this historic photo of the group sitting (as usual) on the historic wall of the Fort. Rosie was fed up with being photographed and stood on the wall behind Yves, so ‘Dusty’ seated himself at David’s feet and posed beautifully If you enlarge the photo and could see through Rod’s head you would be able to see the starting point for the day – or at least the Hotel Navigator.
Last year I pioneered a ‘more interesting’ route through the ‘boreens’ of Burgau, and the triumph was repeated in the reverse direction this year. This avoided going along the main road and then trying to force a way through the building sites to get back on the cliff tops.
Just before 4pm we make our triumphal entry into Luz. with a gala welcome by Dinah, Tina, Ingrid, Alex, Marguerite, Hilary, Ginny, Brian, Gail and Ian S., who had arrived complete with crutches and a quite unjustified thirst!
Another successful excursion round the most South-Westerly corner of Europe. As I announced at dinner, the franchise is up for sale, particularly the joy of sifting through 457 photos, and compiling the Blog – during which I lost over an hours work when the Vox Blog I started deleted itself on a whim, and a later electricity failure at a crucial point on this blog when I lost 2 hours work!!
"Leaders don't inflict pain -- they share pain." Depree, Max
"When we are young we take pains to be agreeable, and when we are old we take pains not to be disagreeable." Unknown








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